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Keep Your Entire Photo in Focus With Hyperfocal Photography

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An important part of taking a great photo is deciding what you want to appear in (and out of) focus. Often, you'll want to emphasize your subject by keeping the rest of the scene out of focus, so I've explained how to be selective about focus using your camera's aperture setting.


There are also times when you want everything in a photo to be in sharp focus, however, from the very front of the foreground to the most distant part of the background. There's a way to do this, and it's called hyperfocal photography--or, more to the point, shooting at your lens's hyperfocal distance.
The Problem With Focusing Normally

The term hyperfocal might sound a bit intimidating, but don't worry: There's no calculus or physics involved. The easiest way to understand hyperfocal distance is to imagine that it's the distance at which you need to focus your lens in order to get the deepest possible depth of field. Photographers often rely on the hyperfocal distance to ensure everything is in focus from the very foreground to the "infinite" background, as in the photograph linked here.

Consider this: Suppose you are taking a landscape photograph and want to include both a log lying on the ground in the foreground and some distant mountains. The log is only a few feet away, but the mountains are miles away--as far as the lens is concerned, they're at "infinity." Is it possible to get both extremes in sharp focus? Maybe. But how?

You already know that you should switch your camera to Aperture Priority and dial in the biggest f-number you can, like f/22. That setting gives you the best depth of field.



Suppose you focus on the log. Your depth of field extends in front and behind the log. The depth of field in front of the log is wasted, because you don't care about capturing anything in front of the log. Behind the log, you'll have some sharpness, but it probably won't go all the way to infinity.

Photography trivia: The closer your focusing distance, the more narrow your depth of field will be. This is why macro (very close-up) photos have such a miniscule depth of field.

Okay, focusing close didn't work. What if we focus more distant--on the mountains--by setting the focus on infinity? We automatically get deeper depth of field (because depth of field gets proportionally bigger as you focus on more distant objects), which is a good start. But again, we're wasting perfectly good depth of field. All the depth of field beyond the focusing distance is useless, since it's already at infinity. If you're lucky, the depth of field in front of infinity will reach all the way back to the log, but it's unlikely, especially if the log is quite close to you.
The Solution: Use the Hyperfocal Distance

You can probably guess where this is going. Instead of focusing on either the closest or most distant part of your scene, you should focus on something in between. If you pick the right place in the middle to set the focus, the depth of field will extend forward to the log and back to the mountains, rendering your scene perfectly sharp. Consider this photo. Rather than focusing on the grass at my feet or the mountains in the background, I chose an intermediate spot, which allowed the entire scene to be sharply focused.

So what's the right middle point to focus on? This is where the hyperfocal distance comes in. Specifically, the hyperfocal distance will give you a depth of field that extends from approximately half the focus distance all the way to infinity. Since the hyperfocal distance gives you the deepest possible depth of field, it's a photographer's go-to setting for getting a photo with seemingly infinite depth of field.

Here's a practical example: Suppose you know that the hyperfocal distance for your lens (at a particular f-stop) is 20 feet. If you focus on something 20 feet in front of you, everything from 10 feet away to infinity will be sharp. So to capture the log in our original example, you'd need to set your camera lens to its hyperfocal distance and then make sure the log was halfway between you and the point you're focusing on. That's all there is to it.

As an aside, here's a detail you might not care about, but I'll throw it in for thoroughness: Photographers have traditionally used a rule of thumb that says the depth of field at the hyperfocal distance goes from half the focus distance to infinity. In reality, that's not quite true. The near limit of the depth of field is not exactly half the focus distance, but it's generally fairly close.
Now that we got all of the theory and background out of the way, you're no doubt curious about how to actually determine the hyperfocal distance so you can go take some photos. Check in next week for the details.
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Here's how to enter: Send us your photograph in JPEG format, at a resolution no higher than 640 by 480 pixels. Entries at higher resolutions will be immediately disqualified. If necessary, use an image editing program to reduce the file size of your image before e-mailing it to us. Include the title of your photo along with a short description and how you photographed it. Don't forget to send your name, e-mail address, and postal address. Before entering, please read the full description of the contest rules and regulations.
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How to Shoot Great Video With a DSLR

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How to Shoot Great Video With a DSLREven when compared to shooting with a professional broadcast camera, filming video with a DSLR camera provides an unexpected freedom that can be fun and exciting for seasoned videographers. DSLRs are capable of shooting professional-looking video, and they're cheaper and more accessible than your average professional-level camcorder.

One nice thing about using a DSLR for video is that you can pull the camera out of the box and start shooting right away. But to master the craft, you need to invest time and money in other equipment to get the most out of shooting video with a DSLR. For anyone used to broadcast cameras, this extra investment is understood; for people accustomed to consumer-level camcorders, however, this is a bit of a new setup. When budgeting for your DSLR, be aware that you'll need to set aside some cash for accessories if you want to get serious.


This guide is an overview of the general aspects of shooting video with a DSLR. Picking the right camera model is just as important as following the basic steps in this guide. The most important thing to ask yourself is what environments you'll be shooting in most frequently, and then buying a camera accordingly. Each camera has its pros and cons: Some are built for low-light shooting, some are very light, some are easy to use, and a lot of older DSLRs don't shoot video at all. Make sure to do your research by reading reviews, studying spec sheets, and getting some presale hands-on time with cameras before you make your initial investment.

Until recently, I've primarily used dedicated professional-level video cameras and even film cameras to shoot projects. So why would I switch to a DSLR for shooting video? For me, it came down to the following factors.

1. Cost: The cameras and lenses are much cheaper than any other professional broadcast option, but they give you similarly high-quality results.

2. Size: DSLRs are small and compact, and the benefits extend to the front of the camera. People are generally more at ease when being filmed with a DSLR than they are when a big broadcast camera is pointed at their face.

3. Ability to shoot high-quality stills and video: I came from a fashion-photography background, and being able to go back to using a camera to take film footage is great for me. I love the aesthetics and the different ways you can use a DSLR.

4. The look of the footage: Even now, after using many different DSLRs for a couple of years' worth of video projects, I am still amazed by the video quality. I've used DSLRs on big shoots for TV shows, advertisements, multicam setups, and interviews. The quality never disappoints.
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